Dressing the Part - Motoring Clothes and a Note about Women

Clothes for the Car!

Clothing the motor camper is not much different from clothing the hunter, trapper, or fisherman of the era, and women often tended to dress in men's clothing for these sorts of expeditions, or even women's clothing designed like men's clothing. (For example, trousers shaped for hips, or blazers with a bust.) This is due to both the convenience of men's clothing for the activities involved, but also due to the acceptability of women in men's clothing that followed WWI. The war created a shortage of able-bodied men in the States, and even more-so in Europe. This meant that from 1914-1918, many women went to work in men's roles in factories where men's clothing was not only more practical, but safer too. 

 First female conservation officer, Michigan, 1920's.

There is no lack of great information regarding sporting attire of the period. Reenactment groups such as Early 20th Century Sportsman and the Amalgamated Order of Motor Campers are a wealth of information relating to outdoor activities in this period. There are also support groups for this time period if people want to make their own gear. Etsy and eBay are great resources for original gear, often at affordable prices. A simple Google search will yield a bountiful harvest of original photographs for all sorts of outdoors clothing and gear. For this reason, I will mostly gloss over most of that information and focus on clothing and gear that relate directly to the use of the automobile. 

"Formal" driving attire of the 1920's. These are chauffeurs, so this is a driving uniform, as opposed to driving clothes.
These are designed to look professional, while still being practical. 

The Feet:

Footwear is an important consideration. Knee-high boots are very common and were very popular in the period for a variety of activities. My personal experience has been that these boots can interfere with the clutching process of a modern replica car, however, they do not interfere with a period car, due to the difference in dashboard shape and depth. If you can only purchase one pair of footwear, then I would recommend taking into consideration what kind of automobile you may end up driving. However, if you intend to be a passenger, then I should think that either form of footwear (tall or short) would be acceptable. 

Ward's boot advertisement from 1922. Any of these styles would be acceptable for driving.

Young man motoring in short boots and a pair of WWI-era woven puttees.

Legs:

Even if you're driving a replica car with an automatic transmission, (they're rare, but they exist) as opposed to a replica with a clutch, or an original automobile, you should consider jodhpurs. They are by far the most comfortable pants I've ever worn. They are perfect for working a clutch as they have extra room in the thighs - being originally designed for horseback riding - and as such do not bunch up around the crotch while clutching. Loose-waisted trousers are a good choice as well. You'll want to avoid overly tight and restrictive clothing, particularly below the waist. Though they are worn by both men and women, jodhpurs seem to be very heavily favored by women in the 1920's and 1930's for driving and camping activities. Plus-fours are also commonly worn, though these disappear in the 30's as the Great Depression put an end to such extravagant fashions. Below the knees, additional covering is commonly used. such as gaiters, leather puttees, woven puttees, and leather spats. The most important thing to remember is to make sure that your ankle is not constrained. The ankle is used quite extensively in the sport of driving, and anything that prevents the ankle from moving will cause pain and could create a hazardous condition while driving.

Man and woman, dressed for motor camping. The woman is in jodhpurs and the man is wearing loose trousers.

Early 1930's advertisement showing a variety of acceptable pants.

Waist up:

For both men and women, typical attire includes shirts, vests, sweaters and cardigans, and a wide array of jackets and coats. Just about anything from the period is usable for motoring, so consider your needs specifically. I have a touring car, so it's rather cold in the fall and early spring, and exceptionally cold in the winter. I prefer to layer up with an undershirt, a wool WWI surplus shirt, a vest, a wool cardigan, a wool pullover, and a driving duster for cutting the wind. It is easy to remove layers as you warm up. This is more suitable than a heavy coat. However, I may look for something heavier if I were to drive in cold weather. One option is a leather Norfolk coat, or a Buffalo Coat, though this is a very pricey investment. Fur collars add warmth as well, but also cost more. Woolen hunting coats would be a good, and more affordable option. In the summer, a cotton shirt and a light driving duster is ample to prevent being battered by the wind at higher speeds. A vulcanized rubber raincoat is a good choice if you intend to drive in adverse conditions, and is quite handy just for camping in general, as you never know when the weather may turn.

Heavy winter coats based on the Norfolk Jacket design.

Sears and Roebuck vulcanized rubber raincoat from the 1920's

Motorist wearing a "Buffalo Coat", the ultimate in warmth and luxury.

Ad for winter Driving Dusters.

Summer Driving Dusters.

Woman motorist wearing a wool duster with fur cuffs and a driving hat.

Headgear:

It is vital to wear a hat when motoring. Should the top be removed in warm weather, the wind will play havoc with your hair. This is less of an issue for men, who simply have to slap on a little more "Dapper Dan", but it can be quite disastrous for women motorists. In cooler weather, even with the top up, the "wind chill" factor whilst driving will be nearly unbearable. Covering the ears is quite important. This can be done with a folding ear flap on a hat, say an ivy cap or a Kromer-style, or with a scarf wrapped over the ears and hat. For reasons of wind, it is best not to drive with a broad-brimmed hat, such as a fedora or campaign hat. Of course, these types of hats are exceptionally good for camping, as they keep the sun off very well, however, they are best left packed in the car during transit. A crushable, tight-fitting cap, such as has already been mentioned, can be kept in the pocket of your driving duster, ready for use whenever driving occurs. For colder weather, fur-lined leather driving or aviator helmets are worth considering. While not an absolute necessity, goggles are fairly handy, particularly if you intend to spend some time on the road, especially in summertime. There have been several occasions on a hot summer day, that a cross-breeze has blown dust in my eye, causing me to have to pull over and work it out before I can proceed to drive again. After a full day of driving, it is remarkable how gritty one's skin can be. Now, remember that this is on modern, 21st Century roads. Imagine what it was like 100 years ago! Also, if you are lucky enough to find a back country gravel road to drive, you will certainly want goggles, especially if there's more than one automobile in your convoy.

 Fur-lined driving or aviation helmet for cold-weather driving.

Woman racecar driver, wearing a canvas helmet and driving goggles.

 One common version of driving goggles are made of celluloid and/or Bakelite. These more-or-less create a seal with your face.

Another common style of goggles, more akin to safety glasses. These will let air in at the sides, but the fine screen protects from particles.
Both usually feature heavy-duty, shatter-resistant glass lenses.

Another note about women:

I know I've mentioned women quite a bit in this post. Part of that is because I know that for most reenactors, men are usually interested in the guns and gear, while women are in it for the fashion. (Yes, I know. That's a gross generalization and someone will call me out on it...) I have also noticed that there's a rift among reenactors in pre-20th century time periods. Many groups encourage women to dress as men (often termed "lumpy soldiers") in order for them to be able to participate in every part of the hobby, while other groups scorn that concept as being inauthentic and unhistorical. I am quite delighted to discover that early 20th century motor camping was a very gender-neutral hobby, even in the 1920's. In fact, women were camping, driving, wearing men's clothing, making critical strategic decisions, and often camping entirely on their own or with girlfriends, even before they had the right to vote! I am often surprised when reading the writings of these intrepid women, to find that they have incredibly modern thoughts on a variety of social matters. For this reason, I would like to encourage more women to become involved in this genre of reenacting, because it is the first time-period where women can participate entirely on the same level as men, doing all the same activities, and they don't have to "pretend" to be men, and yet it is 100% historically accurate for them to do this. This is truly a time-period for the whole family to enjoy. In closing, here are a collection of pictures of women enjoying the outdoors and their automobiles! Happy motoring!

Big-Ticket Equipment on a Budget - The Automobile

One thing that distinguishes early 20th Century reenacting from other time periods in a dramatic way is the use of the automobile. I attended a large WWII event over the summer, and I was amazed at the quantity of jeeps, deuce-and-a-half trucks, tanks, motorcycles, and other equipment. This kind of vintage equipment is extremely pricey and if your time period is pre-1940, finding original cars becomes more difficult the earlier you go. The automobile will undoubtedly be the biggest ticket item that any 1920's reenactor will purchase, and many will be unable to make that level of commitment. This is fine, because anyone who does have a period automobile usually has a spare seat and will be happy to have an historically accurate passenger.

If you can't afford an automobile, hitch a ride with someone who already has one!

If you're lucky enough to have a healthy savings account and a very understanding spouse, you can get a nice automobile with all the hard work done, for about $10,000-$15,000. A "factory-fresh" restoration car may run upwards of $20,000 or more, but I don't recommend getting anything too nice. The owner of a show-quality car will be disinclined to drive it in tall grass or on gravel roads for fear of damaging the paint or getting it dirty. This will put a damper on getting the full historical experience. On the plus side, any historical automobile will be an investment, and unlike a modern car, will actually increase in value over time.

A fine 1929 Buick Model 50 for sale near my house. Nearly perfect condition, asking price of $17,000.

If you don't need as much room for passengers or gear, consider the old American stand-by... Drive a Ford! The Model T and Model A touring cars and sedans were very affordable then and are still so today.They are available in a variety of conditions, and can be had in functional condition for as little as $5,000, but may need extensive interior and body restoration. The problem with the Ford, as was the problem in the 1920's as well, is that they are small and underpowered. Though designed for 4-5 passengers, they have far less leg-room than their more luxury counterparts. Likewise, the 4-cylinder engine doesn't have as much horsepower as a 6-cylinder and therefore they have a hard time keeping up, particularly on hills. Expect to pay about $7,500 for a decent, drive-able Ford needing a minimum amount of restoration work. 

A great deal on a usable Model A can usually be had, such as this 1931, running and in usable shape is only $7,500.  

The most important thing to consider in picking an original car is what you intend to do with it. A decent mid-range auto will allow plenty of room for gear and guests and with the larger 6-cylinder motor, it will have plenty of power and be capable of cruising around 55 mph, which is important, because the average speed limit is about 25 mph faster than the average in the mid 1920's. Modern drivers on their way to work or church get quite miffed when you hold up traffic because you car will only cruise at 30 mph. Here's the average specs on most 1920's era cars: 1908-1926 Ford Model T - Top speed of about 33 mph, cruising speed of about 20-25 mph. 1927-1933 Model A - Top speed of about 45 mph, cruising speed around 35 mph. 1925-1933 "Six" automobile - (This includes most 6-cylinder automobiles, such as Buicks, Plymouths, REOs, Hudsons, etc) Top speed around 70 mph, cruising speed of about 55-60 mph. Note that running a car at top speed for an extended period of time is extremely hard on the engine. The nature of historical motors means that running at a high RPM tends to "froth" the oils and quickly locks it up. Not something you want to do with your car!

If you don't mind getting creative, and you really prefer dependability over authenticity, you can get the best deal by looking for a cheap replicar. In the 1970's and 1980's, various automobiles were built our of fiberglass and set on modern drivetrains for people who wanted something that looked historical, but was dependable and capable of modern speeds. This became my option, mainly by accident. My grandfather owned one such car, and after he passed, I had the opportunity to purchase his car from the estate. The drawback to these "kit cars" is that they are often very small. They're usually 3/4 scale, so they'll be smaller inside than a Model A. The advantage is that they're usually very easy to find parts for at any auto parts store, because they're usually built on a Ford or Volkswagen frame, motor and transmission. If you're adverse to driving a stick, these cars are frequently available in automatic transmissions as well. There's a wide array of styles and they come in all kinds of conditions. Prices can range from $2,000-$15,000. Unfortunately, most of them are replicas of expensive roadsters, such as a Mercedes, Jaguar, or Bentley. The purist reenator may scoff at these fiberglass fakes, however, I have found that most quality reenactors are willing to overlook the flaws in the authenticity simply to have a car that has the "look" hanging around in camp. Since it's such an expensive investment, there's a lot of understanding on the part of fellow living historians.

                                  

My automobile: A fiberglass replica of a 1929 Mercedes-Benz SSK, made in the 1970's by Classic Motor Carriages, known as a "Gazelle".

The trick with these "fake autos" is to perform some simple alterations that will make it more practical and functional, while improving the "look" overall. This can be done fairly simply and easily if you have the time and skills. I recently changed the entire look and functionality of my car by building a hard-top, completely from scratch. This made it possible for me to carry more gear, plus a passenger, whereas before I have to cram gear in every seat but mine. The drawback is this fantasizes the car even more. However, there were many automobile makers that went out of business during the Great Depression, that were small-production, custom builders, and many of them made one-off automobiles for their clients. I decided that mine will become a "fictional" car, built with that idea in mind. This way, it will be as true to the period as I can make it, without it being an actual copy of anything that actually existed. I find this to be a reasonable compromise. I purchased the car for a little under $4,000, and once finished and accessorized, I'll have about $5,000 invested total in a car that looks great, runs well, is affordable to fix, and can cruise at 65 mph in a pinch if necessary. 

My car after building a custom hard top from scratch. Addition of a running board luggage rack from a Model T, and an old Unity spotlight makes the car much more practical for camping. The roofline is modeled on a 1929/1930 Model A.

I'll do a separate post all about the process of building this top and "authentizing" the kit car at a later time. This post is about acquiring your car. The most tempting option, provided that you're willing and capable to do a lot of work and don't intend to drive the car anytime soon, is to look for a rough project. An original "six" sedan with all the best options, but in rusty shape and not running, often with a shot roof and crumbling interior and a few broken windows can usually be had for about $2,500. This is an original car for a very reasonable price! However, take into consideration the cost of restoration. Assuming you're not having to pay anyone for the work, because you're doing it yourself, you're still going to spend a fortune in parts. You'll certainly need tires, so that's $1,000 or more. Most likely, you'll have at least one wheel that's bent or rusty and will need replacing. Add in rare engine parts, reproducing historical upholstery, paint, and the possibility of a damaged fender or two, and you can run into some real expense. If your shiny parts need re-plating (most 1920's cars had nickel-plated grilles and headlights, not chrome), that project alone can run thousands. These are important considerations, as a restoration project can cost $20,000, depending on the work needed. You might be better off just buying a $12,000 driver-quality automobile.

A "project" like this may be dirt-cheap, but will cost you tens of thousands to restore and may not be worth the trouble, not to mention the time it will take before you can be on the road with your gear!

In closing, I'll say "Don't be afraid to dream big" and "Be creative" and you'll find that a proper historical automobile may be more within your grasp than you think. Surf Craigslist and eBay as often as possible. There are ways to filter these sites by year and price, which makes it very easy to make a quick glance. I recommend using Onecraigs or some other service that searches all of Craigslist across the nation. While someone living in Indiana (like myself) may not care to drive to California to pick up a car, it's good to see what all is out there, and a trip to Michigan or Tennessee is certainly not out of the question for a good deal on the right car. One thing to keep in mind is that the later the car, the better the quality. However, the later the car, the more you limit your impression, as you can't very well portray 1921 with a 1929 automobile. Find a happy balance that you like and go with it!

Happy motoring! Watch the road!

What this is all about... An introduction.

A brief introduction, or why I'm writing this blog...

I have been a reenactor for over 16 years. In that time, I've had the rare opportunity to dabble in just about every time period imaginable. From ancient Rome, to Dark Ages, Middle Ages, Renaissance (not just the fantasized "faire" stuff, but proper period Renaissance as well), 17th Century, three periods in the 18th Century, Early 19th Century, American Civil War, Old West, Boer Wars, Span-Am War, and a variety of early 20th Century stuff, I feel like I've experienced snippets of nearly 2000 years of humankind's impression upon the world. Granted, it's from the viewpoint of a reenactor, which is a little romanticized, to say the least... However, being an historian and approaching everything I portray as an academic challenge, I feel that I've at least touched on the experiences of those who came before us. It has been a fun journey so far, and something that I'm looking forward to continuing throughout my life.

As a reenactor of many periods, I've often been asked, "What time period do you wish you'd lived in?" I've often pondered this question myself, and though most of my reenacting career has been in the War of 1812 period and earlier, I keep coming back to the early 20th century in my answers. I feel that the "long first quarter" of the 20th Century provides the best of both the historical world, and the modern.

Don't shoot!

Now for you academics reading this, yes, I understand that the commonly accepted breaking point between the historical world and modern world is the Industrial Revolution, which preceded this era by about 100 years. Don't crucify me yet... I'm referring to the difference between the pre-automobile age, versus the current era of self-driving cars. Or the difference between the telegraph and smartphones. Specifically, I'm referring to the difference between having enough class to dress for dinner and showing up at a friends house in pajamas with a pizza. (I'm not knocking pajamas and a pizza, especially if that's the agreed upon code of dress between both parties, but if that's your idea of dining with friends, you might want to reevaluate your level of social interactions!)

Funny cartoon to break up the monotony of text. I've been told this is something bloggers do...

So, back to my point: If I were to choose an historical period in which to live, it would be the early 20th Century. The romantic side of me yearns for an era when one might wear a tuxedo several times a year, not just for the occasional wedding, or a time when life seems simpler without the distractions of the internet. (Insert irony here.) The practical (modern) side of me revels in an historical era that includes conveniences like running water and electricity. The gearhead in me loves that I get to play with old cars, aeroplanes, tractors, and various other dangerous machinery. The craftsman in me wants to make it all by hand, which becomes much harder with later historical eras. Lastly, the antiques junkie in me revels in the fact that neat original gear can be easily had for often less than the cost of reproducing said item. 

A recent junk-store score: Pre-1921 flashlight and a circa 1910 fishing reel for less than $50!

MISSION STATEMENT:

The purpose of this blog will be to post, with varying frequency, my observations on this largely unknown era of historical reenacting in hopes that it will encourage more people to join the fun. I will be discussing my own kit, research, and various projects, plus providing some how-to's and thoughts on where to find bits of kit and how to restore/salvage them. I will be primarily focusing on the period from 1910-1932, though I may occasionally deviate from that as required. I intend to discuss all subjects pertaining to those periods, and the various forms of reenacting that are available. This means that I will discuss farming, hunting, camping, fishing, motor camping, automobiles, aviation, Prohibition, women's suffrage, the Great War (begrudgingly and in more socio-economical terms, as I'm not really a military historian), and the Stock Market Crash, among a myriad of other things. Primarily this will all center on the experience of the average American of the 1920's, but deviations from the script will happen. TEASER: I'll also be chronicling my adventures on the road, the 1920's kitchen I'll be creating for my wife, and several planned "major expeditions" to National Parks in the US. I've also nearly got my wife convinced to join in the fun and grace us with some of her sewing and fashion knowledge as well as her collection of recipes and cooking tips.

Thanks for reading! (But...)

Feel free to follow along and join the conversation in the comments section. However, bear in mind that this is a hobby, and it's for fun. Constructive criticism, arguments backed up with documentation, and questions about anything I'm writing about are very welcome and encouraged. Haterz gonna get removed! Have fun, and happy trails!