My polar-opposite motor cars... The replica 1929 Mercedes is a care-free delight that I can drive anywhere for as long as I can tolerate the tight space. My 1924 Model T frequently has some mechanical issue, and it can't do highway speeds, but it's got a ton of room and it's got the full historical experience, though I must say, it's not difficult to get lost in the moment in either car.
Throughout many time-eras of historical reenacting and living history, we have come to accept certain concessions. For one thing, completely 100% correct reproduction fabric is a very rare thing indeed. It is virtually impossible to acquire correct linen, because the machines used nowadays are not the same as the ones that were used historically. This changes the very nature of the fabric itself. Historical linen doesn't wrinkle like modern linen does, because the fibers are left long, whereas nowadays, they are cut short to go through the processing machines that are also used for cotton. Furthermore, many fabric designs are "historically inspired", but not actual copies of historical patterned fabric. (Yes, there are some out there, but you'll pay LOADS of money for them, and they're pretty rare.) Having handled MANY historical garments, I can tell you that the quality of historical fabric, versus modern, is like night and day in most cases. It is also common practice to machine-sew your hidden inside seams and top-stitch by hand, even in periods where sewing machines did not exist. Why? Because no one will ever see it, and it's more economical and practical. Sure, I've made entirely hand-sewn garments, and they wear out just as fast as a machine-sewn one. Some folks even machine-sew the outside, but I can't bring myself to do this, unless it's on a garment that dates to a period when machines existed.
You wouldn't wear this immaculate, extant, rare driving costume on a dusty backroad, would you? Some cars are a little too valuable to risk. A pre-WWI, all original car doesn't need to be in city traffic. There's a place for everything. (Photo by FIDM Museum Blog; Motoring Duster, Silk: 1910-1915)
This original 1912 Stutz Bearcat could certainly cruise at 60 mph, but at about a half a million dollars, I don't think any of us could afford it... Plus, where would I put my kitchen box? This is also a very rare and historically significant car, and should probably be preserved for future generations, not risked at highway speeds in modern traffic. (Photo from TopSpeed.com)
If you're like me, (and most reenactors that I know) you probably have difficulties with the idea of coughing up $5,000-$10,000 for a piece of reenacting equipment. This price range should get you a decent, running car that needs work. However, bear in mind the limitations of historic vehicles. We are all too used to packing our gear at the last minute, getting off work on a Friday, and driving 70 mph to our favorite reenactment event. You simply will not do that in a period car. Most automobiles made before 1930 have a speed range of 25-50 mph. Trucks, such as the TT and AA can't do more than 25 as a TOP speed, without serious modifications. Even the "dime-a-dozen", "common-as-mud" Ford Model T tops out at 45. (That's throttle wide open, and going downhill.) The implications of even driving a Model T on a 55mph highway are terrifying, since no one actually drives the speed limit anyway... 
If you have a full understanding that this is the experience, and you WILL need a trailer, (and a truck that can pull it) then you'll be just fine. Be prepared to learn everything you can about working on historic vehicles, because they will have issues that need fixing. If you plan to do a lot of touring, you'll need a complete spare set of rims and tires, extra tubes, spare carburetor, timer, tools, and in the case of Model T's, a spare coil and spare transmission bands are a good idea. You also need the knowledge of how to do most of these things, or travel with someone who does. It's a lot for an amateur to take on, but it can be done. Expect to invest at least $1000 per year into your antique car for at least the first 5 years. All of this may sound very grim, but once you get the bugs worked out, you can expect fairly smooth sailing for quite some time, and the experience will be full-on real. You won't be able to take a full car load up a steep hill without resorting to your lowest gear, and making your passengers walk alongside, but then, that's the true experience!
Even by the 30's, climbing steep hills in a car was still a big deal. This one did it, but it's not much of a car at all!
(Image from Popular Science Magazine, 1937)
(Image from Popular Science Magazine, 1937)
Next, we need to talk about safety. THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT, SO PAY ATTENTION!! 18th and 19th Century reenactors will be familiar with the process of safety checks on muskets and cannons, using proper charges, etc. Safety is never something that should be sacrificed for the sake of authenticity. Historical vehicles do not have adequate brakes. In most cases, they aren't suitable for stopping the car from full speed, and they never have a fail-safe. At the very least, you should install some form of backup braking system. There are many period aftermarket solutions that you can use, or you can upgrade to modern-style hydraulic disc brakes. This is the safest option, but it will require some basic machine-shop work to accomplish the task.
This is a "juice brake" kit from Texas T Parts designed for easily upgrading the brakes on your Model T to something more modern. This is a pricey kit, and a good machinist can do this themselves, but if you're not a machinist, it's worth it to cough up the cash for a kit like this. Alternatively, you can add Rocky Mountain brakes to your Model T for a period-correct solution. I believe the kit pictured here will also work on other early motor cars. (Photo from Texas T Parts)
Another problem with original cars is that the glass, if it has never been replaced, is plate-glass. This becomes a deadly shrapnel grenade in the case of an accident. Most glass shops will do the work pretty cheap. As it is flat glass, not curved, you can usually have laminated safety glass installed for about $50-$100 per window. (One reason in favor of a touring car over a closed car...)
Laminated safety glass is really important... Really!
Turn signals and brake lights did not come standard on most cars until after our period, so this is a concession you NEED to make. There was a time when people understood hand signals, but there are becoming fewer and fewer folks who remember that part of their driving test. I've even heard stories of police officers not knowing what they are. Furthermore, for the last century, cars have been capable of speeds up to 80 or 100 mph, but the roads didn't accommodate those speeds. Nowadays, I find there are many folks who don't think twice about cruising at 70 mph on a 55 mph highway. When you're doing 35, they're going twice your speed. If you are braking, they can't tell a difference, and they're likely in the middle of writing a "very important" text message at that moment... Having some bright brake lights "may" save you. The wiring diagrams are available online and the project is pretty simple. You don't even have to ruin the look of your period car, or upgrade to 12 volt systems in order to do it. This little electronic board will allow you to convert your 6-volt feed to 12 volt, but it will only operate LED lights. (They're brighter anyway...) You can buy smoked-lens mini lights for motorcycles, and they'll be very unobtrusive, and as LED, they're plenty bright. You'll need a brake light switch to attach to your pedal, and a blinker module and switch as well. It's not worth the risk. As we have all experienced in the living history field, the public are not the most observant folks around. However, on the road, they have the ability to kill you. Make yourself visible!
A recent incident involving a 1931 Model A and a modern driver who was distracted by texting while driving.
In this case, the car was actually parked, so brake lights wouldn't have mattered, but it's just as likely for this to happen while moving, so do everything you can to make sure your vehicle is visible. (Photo by William Smith)
In this case, the car was actually parked, so brake lights wouldn't have mattered, but it's just as likely for this to happen while moving, so do everything you can to make sure your vehicle is visible. (Photo by William Smith)
Another safety factor to think about are seat belts. This is not something I personally consider necessary, because any altercation between a modern vehicle and a 90+ year old, wood-framed car is going to be disastrous, and lap belts probably won't help you. However, if you're like me, and you're traveling with your small children, the restraint will help keep them from hanging out the window, which is a constant battle, especially with active boys.
Kids love old cars, and I feel it's important to introduce them to them at an early age, but we must not forget that there is a certain aspect of danger and we should take whatever precautions we can to make them safe, even if it means sacrificing a little bit of the authenticity of the automobile. Picture from TIME magazine archives.)
My replica Mercedes. It's only downfall is the size. It's a little tight with gear and at best, you can only get two people in it.
There are three types of replica cars. There are the cheap fiberglass kits that were made in scores during the 70's and 80's. I have one of these. They are fun, look decent, are ridiculously dependable, parts are readily available everywhere, and they can do interstate speeds. They are also very, very small, so pack light, don't plan on passengers, and after 3 hours of driving, they'll become quite cramped and uncomfortable. These include the Gazelle Mercedes, Bentley, Jaguar, and other affordable cars. They vary in price from $2000 to over $10k, depending on how much improvement has been done. They are usually built on Mustang II, Pinto, Chevette, or Volkswagen Beetle drivetrains. Another style is the Shay replica. Shay made almost exact replicas of the Ford Model A in the late 70's and early 80's. Sitting side-by-side, you can tell the difference, but at 10 feet away, they certainly look like Model A's. They are also built on the Pinto/Mustang II frames, so highway speeds are no problem. (There is also a rarely found 1929 Chevrolet fiberglass "Woodie" replica that is on an S-10 frame. They were made in the mid 1990's) These tend to fetch pretty good prices because they are more drivable than the smaller replicas, and more highway-ready than an actual Model A. Expect to pay $9k-$12k for one of these. The last genre of replicas are probably the best, but very hard to find for sale. These are cars that are hand-built by enthusiasts. Most commonly, they are speedsters, so not the best thing for camping with... However, these are built from scratch, often using a mixture of both antique, and reproduction parts. Sometimes they use souped up original drivetrains, but often, they'll use a slightly newer engine, transmission, and rear end, and give it the "look" of the period. 70's and 80's straight-6 motors can be used, while others prefer the flathead look and emissions-free cleanliness of a 1950's straight eight. Attention to detail is paramount in projects like this. If it doesn't look like what it's trying to emulate, it will look terrible. The devil's in the details. A handmade replica car can run anywhere from $10k to $30k, depending on what it is.
This was intended to be a "replica" of the Stutz Bearcat pictured above. As you can see, it's nowhere near the mark. While this car would certainly be a lot of fun, I'm sure, it's not at all what you want to be rolling up to the motor camp in. (Picture from Craigslist ad)
Now let's look at what I consider to be the ideal choice for the individual who wishes to drive to the event! Resto-Mods are not "hot rods" as we know them today, but rather a car that has had some hot-rodding done, but isn't changed from its original appearance. Often times, these are cars that have been properly restored, and are visually period, but have had major work done under the hood. This is comparable to a reenacting garment that is machine-sewn on the inside, and hand-sewn on the outside! The engine might be bored .30 over, upgraded with aluminum pistons, 12-volt electrics, modern carburetor, and often the transmission and rear end have been changed and "juice brakes" installed. This car will also have all the safety features properly installed as well. A good resto-modder will do some quality machine work and make sure that the rear-end overhaul doesn't change the way the wheels attach. Too often a good resto-mod is ruined by the S-10 or Mustang II wheels that have to go on it because the axles were changed. Quality work can be done, but it's best to find one that has already had quality upgrades, because paying a machinist to do that kind of work is very costly. A well-done resto-mod with everything completed should fetch anywhere from $15k-$30k. It's costly, yes, but you'll be able to do anything you want to with it, and future expense will mostly just be maintenance. If you can afford it, a properly completed car (whether original or resto-mod) is the way to go.
A very well-done resto-mod 1929 Chandler Royal 8 that looks right on the exterior and interior...
...but has a lot of modifications under the hood and chassis, including performance and safety upgrades.
If you're working on a budget, and you don't need a lot of space, I'd recommend picking up a running Gazelle Mercedes kit. They are by far the most prolific, and therefore, they are quite affordable. The VW based ones are cheapest, but somewhat underpowered. However, one that needs interior, and/or has a bad gelcoat can be picked up for around $2000. If you can, spend a little more and get one with a Mustang II engine. The suspension is much better, and the engine is more powerful and more dependable. From there, you can build it however you wish. (Or find a good, completed one for around $8000) If you need more room, you're going to have to spend a little more money. However, if you're handy with wood, consider buying something that has a front-end and drivetrain, but no body, and build a woodie, or delivery wagon/huckster on that frame. The most important thing (and reenactors should be familiar with this concept) is to determine exactly what you need/want from the start and build toward that. Otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time and money on cars that don't make you happy. The bottom line is understanding what you want to get out of the hobby. If you want to enjoy the drive, camp "in a style following the period", and you don't want to buy a truck and trailer, then a replica or resto-mod is the way to go. If you want the "full, immersive historical experience", then you'll need to haul your machine to events on a trailer (unless local enough to drive backroads), and be prepared for anything, because that's what happened "back then". Remember that it took about 3 months or more to drive across the USA in 1923. If you're driving an original car, don't be in any sort of hurry. And finally, let me reiterate... DON'T SACRIFICE SAFETY FOR AUTHENTICITY!
Happy trails!!
If you're interested in joining in on some 1920's-era motor camping adventures, check out the Amalgamated Order of Motor Campers on Facebook!
